Archive for September, 2009

TRIUMPH T100 CONRODS – scrap or not to scrap!

Friday, September 25th, 2009
Triumph Tiger 100 crankshaft & conrods

Triumph Tiger 100 crankshaft & con-rods

I have inherited from my father, Terry Ives, a 1954 Triumph Tiger 100, the first of the swinging arm models. The crankshaft and rods had gone missing some years ago, as they do, so I endeavoured to source a replacement.

The original one would have been what they called a one piece crank, but I knew the crank from this particular Tiger was swapped for a three piece one. The previous owner used it for sprinting in the seventies. The one piece cranks were a lot tougher under extreme loads. I looked on Ebay and found a crank for sale in Chile, South America. I purchased it and found it had very large big end journals, but according to my Triumph manual this was the right size. The whole of the crank was very grotty and had had modifications done to it to keep it running through the years, so I looked for a second one. I managed to pick up another Tiger crank, and this one came with rods, which I also needed.

The con-rods had white metaled steel caps and the rods themselves were made from duraluminium. The big end journals were a lot smaller and the crank was stamped 6T. The stroke was 82mm as was the Tiger 100. I measured the big ends of the rods and found they were worn out of tolerance. I asked several companies about reconditioning them on the off change that there were other engineering companies who had experience with salvaging con-rods, but nobody could help me. I fact several companies said it could not be done.

Have owned and run Stotfold Engineering for the past 40 odd years I thought I would put my restoration skills to the test and solve the worn out con-rod dilemma, and besides, nobody says it can’t be done to me. I machined the steel cap and the dualumimiun con-rod down by .015″ which caused the eye of the rod to be elliptical. I then secured the cap onto the rod with the correct torque settings to the stretch bolts. The con rod was then turned on the lathe to within .002″ under-size and then finish honed to restore the correct running clearances. The thickness of white metal on the cap was ample enough to have it machined out and leave plenty for years of service.

I was told in the past that if you have one of these type of con-rod , you should throw it away and get a new one. It seemed like a waste of a perfectly usable con rod and it has always been the policy here at Stotfold Engineering to repair, recondition or restore an item rather than just bin it. Our motorcycle repair and restoration workshop always look at the problems from this perspective to overcome engineering problems, not give other companies standard response of “you need to buy a new mate”.

by Terry Ives

HONDA CB750 FOUR PART 4 – the electrics

Wednesday, September 23rd, 2009
Battery in the rear tail hump
Battery in the rear tail hump

The electrics are much reduced from the standard bike. The generator has been replaced by a single phase lighter item. I got this from Cycle Exchange in the US who sell a lot parts for 750 fours, check out their web site, it really is excellent. The rear frame rail was cut and inverted to take a fire alarm battery. The stainless steel battery box was made here by Terry. The wiring will run down the inside of the frame tube and appear just before the head stock.

 

Standard battery & electrical components

Standard battery & electrical components

Boyer micro digital system is mounted

Boyer micro digital system is mounted

The Boyer Bransen micro digital system is mounted under the tank. The single phase regulator is mounted on an extra brace between the two horizontal frame tubes. There will be no starter motor, starter switch, soleniod, sprag clutch (3), indicators, warning lights, just lights and horn. There is no starter motor and 3 phase alternator (7,8 & 9), so things should be a lot lighter. The charging system I have left exposed. I will show you later how this was done and the modifications to the engine casings.

Tail light installed

Tail light installed

The tail light is a zodiac item mounted on a billet alloy spacer to bring it out to the correct distance. The headlight is a 7″ item taken from a Suzuki GSX1400 muscle bike. The switch gear will feature a kill switch, horn button and high/low beam. The frame is now going for painting, so next part will involve the engine build.

by Colin Jones

HONDA CB750 FOUR PART 3 – bodywork

Thursday, September 10th, 2009
Rolling chasis almost ready for painting

Rolling chassis almost ready for painting

Construction of the chassis is near complete. The photo above shows the bike nearing the end of the dry build phase and almost ready for strip down polish and paint. The plan is that all the alloy parts be polished and the frame painted a cobalt blue. The CR750 tank is mounted on the original front tank mounts. A steel bar was welded across the frame tubes to which a hook is welded, and this takes the rubber clip to hold the rear of the tank. The steering stem was drilled to take the tank vent. The Honda badges will be fitted later. The oil tank is mounted to four lugs welded to rear diagonal frame tube. The lugs on the bottom of the oil tank were removed as they were not any use. The tank looks much better without the extra bracket spoiling it’s lines. The 1/2″ hoses that connect to the oil cooler run in small rings welded to the top frame tube. The middle frame ring carries the bottom fairing support rods. The petrol and oil tank both came from “Mead Speed”.

Rear view showing the custom tail light fitted

Rear view showing the custom tail light fitted

Rear view on the bike bench in the bike shop

Rear view on the bike bench in the bike shop

The tail and seat unit I bought from Ebay and houses the 12v battery , which is from a fire alarm panel. It sits in a stainless box mounted on the frame under the seat unit. Nothing more should be needed at there is no starter motor on this bike. The seat is still to be recovered properly. The shocks are Nitros supplied by “Hagons” who also built the twin 18″ wheels – stainless spokes with flangeless alloy rims.
The alloy fairing is mounted from a rod attached to a spigot welded to the headstock. This also carries the 7″ headlight from a modern Suzuki 1400 muscle bike. All the fairing brackets were made here by Terry. The fairing  and screen came from “The Tank Shop” and is for a Ducati SS900.
Front mudguard custom made

Front mudguard custom made

 I made the mudguard  by cutting a section from a Royal Enfield rear alloy mudguard. Terry then made a brace from stainless steel to keep everything nice and stiff. That about covers the bodywork. The next task will be to work out where the electrics will run, so they cannot be seen.

by Colin Jones

HONDA CB750 FOUR GEARBOX PROBLEMS

Thursday, September 10th, 2009

A customer recently bought his Honda CB750 four into our bike shop for restoration and complaining of gear shifting problems. After inspection I found there was a gear selection problem. My customer compounded this by saying he had trouble selecting gears and sometimes deliberately double shifting to miss the offending gear.

I stripped the engine and set the bottom crankcase up in a holding jig. I then set the gearbox shafts and gears in their respective positions. Then I ran through all the gear selections up and down the gearbox looking at such things as selector fork barrel position and fork position.

Honda CB750 four gearbox selector

Honda CB750 four gearbox selector

I noticed the selector forks (2, 3, & 4) were not pushing the gears into full driving mesh, with some gears heavily meshing and some only with a shallow mesh. This would cause them to jump out of gear under load. After closer inspection I noticed that the selector forks were tilting or moving poorly under selection with the drum (6). This immediately pointed to the selector fork running shaft (5) being worn or undersized.

I measured the selector fork bores and found them all to be well within tolerance. I then measured the shaft and found it to be .005″ undersize from the selector fork bores. I informed the customer about the poblem and he supplied me with another new shaft. I measured the new shaft to ensure it was correct only to find it too was .005″ smaller than the fork selector bores. When ever I have made fork selectors and shafts from scratch I have a running clearance of .0005″.

I then machined a new selector fork shaft with a .0005″ clearance. This provided a very close push fit into the running holes in the bottom crankcase that supports the shaft. Anyway, when it was all fitted I looked at the selector fork operation and found that all the gears meshed perfectly throughout the gearbox.

My conclusion from all this, is that I wonder if gearbox selection on Honda CB750 four’s was an inherent problem or whether the gear selector shafts had been badly manufactured following poor engineering practice. The shafts I make and made for this particular bike are manufactured from material of the highest specification. They are then case hardened and precision ground.

All our restoration work is carried out at our workshops. We do not farm work out to other engineering companies or other so called bike restorers who simply buy a new part and bolt it on. We pride ourselves on the ability to look at a problem, understand it and provide a solution through skilled and competent engineering.

by Terry Ives

HONDA CB750 FOUR SOHC PART 2 – the brakes

Thursday, September 10th, 2009
A six pot Pretech caliper should be an improvement

A six pot Pretech caliper should be an improvement

One of the first jobs I did was to improve on the front brake, which might have been fine for 1969, but not now. The standard fork leg was cleaned, polished and machined to take the special brackets made here by Terry Ives.

It was originally designed by me to take a Suzuki GSXR750 Nissin caliper, but I soon realised the rear of the caliper hits the spokes (yes the brake was designed before the wheel was built – learning curve). Luck would have it that Pretech do a caliper for the GSXR and offer a slim back version which fitted nicely. The keen eyed may have noticed the spindle is in wrong – its just loosely assembled for the photo.

front-brake-caliperdisk-cb750-four

The original front brake was the first production hydraulic motorcycle brake. It has a single sided piston, operating on a pivoting arm. The main problem I had when I was a dispatch rider was that the pivoting bolt (12) would require constant greasing to keep it operating. If neglected the steel pin running in the alloy caliper mount (11) would seize and if you were lucky you might be able to get out with heat. I had one that resisted all attempts to remove it and the only course of action was to get a new mount and pin. I would suggest if you are using you CB on a regular basis, the front pivot should be striped and greased every 1000 miles. Ensure the two ‘O’ rings (20) are installed to prevent dirt and road grit getting into the pin. Obviously if the pivot is seized the piston will only push on one side of your disc and braking efficiency will be much reduced.

The Rear Brake

Rear brake adapted to take twin pot caliper

Rear brake adapted to take twin pot caliper

The rear brake is used on a later 750 four F1 rear hub and not the standard drum. The brake I acquired at an auto jumble and I’m not sure what its off. The mount was extended with aluminum welding here at the workshop and then aqua blasted in our blasting machine. The Brembo master cylinder was then attached to the custom rear set mounting plate also made here by Terry Ives.

by Colin Jones

COMMON WIRING FAULTS

Wednesday, September 9th, 2009
1. Poorly soldered connection with the loom

1. Poorly soldered connection within the loom

2. Burnt out earth wire within the headlight

2. Burnt out earth wire within the headlight

Having rewired many motorcyles over the years I thought I would list the two most common problems I encounted whilst rewiring a Big Bear chopper recently.

  1. Obviously the most common of electrical problems is connections and this bike had more than its fair share of badly soldered connections. There were numerous spade and bullet connectors which were past their sell by date. See photo 1.
  2. Another common problem is earthing. This bike lacked a good solid earth wire running end to end. The first thing a do when I build a loom is install a substanial earth wire. This is connected to the frame at two points and the engine. On this bike the earth for the headlight had to go through the headlight brackets and via the steering races – not good. The result is what you see in the photo 2. 

 

Wiring problems? HELL YES!!!

Wiring problems? HELL YES!!!

In conclusion if you want your bike to be reliable and not have shares in the AA/RAC then remember these two things about wiring – good clean solid connections and a good clean solid earth. These two principles will eliminate 90% of wiring problems.

On the Big Bear Chopper a number of wiring changes had occured over the years, carried out by not so competent mechanics. In the end the whole wiring loom was cut back and repaired properly here in the workshop.

by Colin Jones

HONDA CB750 FOUR SOHC PART 1 – the swinging arm

Wednesday, September 9th, 2009

One of the first thoughts on this bike was to build a unique cafe racer styled machine. I really liked the look of the CR750′s, so I purchased the petrol and oil tank. I didn’t want  the engine to be covered and I wanted as much simplicity as possible, so the bike looked like it was built with everything in harmony. The problem alot of bike builders have, and I have done it myself sometimes, is buying a part they really like and making the bike fit the part at all costs. If it it doesn’t fit or doesn’t look as if the factory fitted it then you just have to except that its not for this bike. 

The modified swinging arm fitted with the engine positioned for alignment

The modified swinging arm fitted with the engine positioned for alignment

One of the first jobs was to fit a Dresda swinging arm. The arm was not designed for the bike and so was modified by Terry to fit. It was cut and re-braced with the adjusters being repositioned. Two new spacers were machined to fit the smaller standard swinging arm pivot. If you would like a Dresda swinging arm have a look at the cb750cafe.com. where Steve “Carpy” Carpenter sells replica ones. It a very good site with lots of info.

by Colin Jones

HONDA CB750 FOUR SOHC

Wednesday, September 9th, 2009

 

 

A 750 four in need of some love

A 750 four in need of some love

 

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